Cantina Ortaccio

Latera, Lazio, ITA

Nestled in the hills of northern Lazio, near the north-western shores of Lago di Bolsena and not far from Tuscany, lies the small village of Latera. It was here that Massimo Antonuzi and Patrizia Montanari discovered a series of near-forgotten vineyard parcels and, in 2015, founded Cantina Ortaccio. Having previously run a wine shop in Rome, the couple traded the city’s bustle for the quiet, hands-on life of vineyard farming, drawn by the region’s unique terroir and heritage vines.

The parcels they cultivate, scattered around Latera and nearby Gradoli, total just four hectares and sit at elevations ranging from 400 to 550 meters above sea level. The soils, a volcanic mix of tuff, sand, and rock fragments, impart a striking minerality to the wines. Here, old vines—some planted by Massimo’s grandfather in 1948 and others abandoned by the village elders—stand ungrafted on piedi-franco rootstock, while newer plantings from 2019 complement the historic vineyards. Grape varieties are traditional and heirloom: Procanico, Trebbiano, Grechetto, Malvasia, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo, all carefully revived before they could be replaced with more “international” varieties.

Farming is biodynamic but uncertified, following a zero-till, minimal intervention approach. The vineyards are never worked with heavy machinery; instead, every task is done by hand. In spring, the parcels flourish with wildflowers—poppies, chamomile, St. John’s wort, nettle, and chicory—reflecting the health and vibrancy of the soils.

The cellar, carved directly into the tufo, maintains a natural constant temperature of 12°C, allowing wines to develop without modern climate control. Grapes are de-stemmed and gently crushed by foot before fermenting in fiberglass tanks using native yeasts. Red and white wines alike are aged in re-purposed chestnut and oak barrels (300L & old barriques) for around 12 months, often developing a delicate flor, before being bottled and further aged for another year. Every step prioritizes oxygen-friendly handling, natural expression, and a sense of place.

Ortaccio is a project deeply rooted in memory, tradition, and respect for nature. For Massimo, the inspiration comes from childhood harvests with his grandfather and the simple, humble wines of his youth. Today, Patrizia and Massimo create wines that capture the volcanic soul of Latera and Gradoli, the history of its land, and the care of hands that understand both patience and precision. Their wines, once almost impossible to find outside of Rome, are now a rare glimpse into one of Lazio’s most inspiring terroirs.

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